Kikunoi Makuzugahara Maruyama, Gion Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto Japan Tel: +81 75 561 0015 www.kikunoi.jp

At this grand dame of kaiseki cuisine, third-generation owner and now television celebrity chef Yoshihiro Murata excels at expressing the mood and flavours of the seasons with works of edible art that entice all the senses. His shincha mushi (steamed new tea) evokes all the freshness of spring with its fresh green tea soba noodles and steamed red snapper, and his kamasa (barracuda), scented with burning pine needles, perfectly references autumn. His restaurant’s numerous dining rooms range in size from the very small and intimate to vast banquet halls, most of which were stunningly designed by master carpenter Sotoji Nakamura.